Rocky Mountaineer
A red carpet is ceremoniously rolled out at the entrance stairs to one of the most luxurious trains in the world. As if on cue, first light breaks through the scattered morning clouds and casts the Rocky Mountaineer in an ethereal, golden glow that has us scrambling for our cameras before we’ve even left the station. It’s a welcome harbinger for the beauty that awaits us on our two-day train journey through the scenic Canadian Rockies.
We make our way up the stairs to the second floor of our cabin and find our assigned, heated seats beneath a panoramic glass-domed roof. Our onboard hosts Toni and Dyllan greet us with smiles and steaming cups of coffee. As the train chugs forward, we’re waved off by the Rocky Mountaineer staff, then watch as the landscape slowly shifts from urban cityscapes to the lush fields and cloudy blue rivers of the Fraser Valley.
This is the beginning of the iconic ‘First Passage to the West’ route; a 900-kilometre sojourn that takes us from the coastal city of Vancouver in British Columbia to Alberta’s bucket listtopping resort town of Banff. It’s the first of four rail routes crisscrossing Western Canada and the Colorado Rockies, following the same historic trails that early settlers took on foot more than a century ago (albeit ours is a more lavish experience).
By lunch, we’re cruising alongside a turquoise blue lake framed by golden yellow larches and rust-red Douglas fir trees. As part of our premium GoldLeaf Service, we’re ushered downstairs to a dining room complete with plush booths, white linen-covered tables and crystal-clear picture windows (SilverLeaf travellers are served at their seats).
The three course menu by executive chef Kaelhub Cudmore highlights locally sourced produce with hearty mains like Alberta striploin steak, Fraser Valley chicken paillard and pesto gnocchi, all made fresh in the onboard custom-built kitchen, accompanied by a drinks list stacked with Canadian wine.
I opt for a vintage rosé from BC’s Okanagan region, and clink glasses with my fellow travellers. The energy in the car suddenly turns raucous; someone’s just spotted a bald eagle perched in a scraggly nest on the right side of the train, but there’s a dramatic canyon begging for our attention on the left. It’s a recurring first-world problem we’re faced with throughout the trip: which way to look?
Thankfully, our hosts point out the best photo opportunities and must-see landmarks well ahead of time. As we roll by gushing rapids, rocky outcrops and glacial rivers they launch into tales of the Overlanders, Gold Rush villages and First Nations territories, providing a fascinating glimpse into the Pacific Northwest’s storied past. And to ensure we don’t miss a single view, we stop at sunset and spend our first night in a comfortable hotel in the prairie town of Kamloops, before departing again at dawn.
“This part of the trip is beautiful and lush and you start to get the feeling that you’re going up into the mountains but you’re not quite there yet. There’s a sense of anticipation that I love,” chef Kaelhub tells us the next morning at breakfast. To get closer to the action, I venture out to the open-air observation deck; if my morning coffee didn’t wake me up, the ice-cold autumn wind certainly does the trick. I pull my coat tighter as I lean over the rail to get the perfect shot: the cobalt blue and gold Rocky Mountaineer curving onto itself before disappearing into a tunnel.
The second day passes in a joyful blur of snow-capped mountains, deer sightings, ‘Gin Rocky’ cocktails and laughter with new friends as we head into the World Heritage-listed Banff National Park. We arrive at the Rimrock Resort Hotel, an exclusive mountain retreat, after dark and are greeted with a nightcap in their cosy Larkspur lounge.
Hours later, I’ve finally fallen asleep – lulled by a phantom rocking motion from two days aboard a train – when the phone rings with a message from the concierge desk: it’s the aurora wake-up call. Upstairs at the hotel’s portico, the northern lights are on full display. A huddle of guests whisper in excitement as ribbons of emerald green and deep magenta light dance in the star-strewn sky above us. From first light to midnight aurora, this truly is the train trip of a lifetime.
Plan your trip to Canada’s Rocky Mountains
Where to stay
Fairmont Hotel Vancouver, Vancouver Locally known as the ‘castle in the city’, this luxury hotel is located downtown.
The Rimrock Resort Hotel, Banff Searching for the northern lights? Stay here for their aurora wake-up call.
Where to eat
RawBar, Vancouver Sustainable sushi paired with cocktails.
Teahouse in Stanley Park, Vancouver An elegant dining experience with views of English Bay.
Where to visit
Vancouver Art Gallery, Vancouver
Stanley Park, Vancouver The 400-hectare public park is a green oasis in the city.
Lake Louise, Banff Book the ‘Voyageur Canoe’ experience in the warmer months, or enjoy ice skating in winter.
Banff Gondola, Banff For sweeping views of the resort town.
Where to shop
Gastown, Vancouver For designer stores, gift shops and cool cafes and wine bars.
Downtown Banff, Banff For the year-round ‘Spirit of Christmas’ store and genuine Canadian goods.
Getting there
Vancouver is a 14-hour non-stop flight from Australia. Flight prices start from approx. $2246* for a round trip from Sydney to Vancouver with Air Canada. Rocky Mountaineer’s ‘First Passage to the West’ runs
between Vancouver to Lake Louise and Banff. The five-night journey starts from $3576* per person and includes two days onboard Rocky Mountaineer. Visit rockymountaineer.com
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